Between Swims

The saying goes that as a kayaker we are always “between swims”. The sentiment behind that was reinforced to me this week during a paddle out to Point Bonita and the Marin Headlands. The primary reason the four of us, Bill, Tony, Bryant and myself were out there was to try out four different models of kayaks; the P&H Delphin, Pyranha Fusion, Nifty 385 and the Sportee in the rock gardens.

The swell was big, something like 14′@15seconds but we were all competent and experienced paddlers in those conditions. I should point out that we would never consider taking students out in such conditions. 

We launched from Horseshoe Cove and on the way to Point Bonita we made the most of every feature.

I was in the Pyranha Fusion and loved it’s maneuverability in tight to the rocks around Point Diablo. We landed through the dumping surf on the beach at the eastern end of Bonita Cove and switched boats.

I took Bill’s Sportee and immediately felt uncomfortable in it. The lack of thigh bracing and low foredeck made me concerned that I would not be able to stay in the kayak in the event of a capsize. I expressed my concerns to the others but since the purpose of the paddle was for the others to try the different boats I said that I was happy to stick with the Sportee. 

We launched and made our way along the shoreline and I ‘played chicken’ with some of the large waves pounding the beach and breaking around the rocks. I survived a couple of poundings including one that sent me high up onto the beach. I was enjoying myself despite how uncomfortable I felt in the kayak. I asked the guys to raft up so that I could adjust the foot pegs forwards. I was starting to have pins and needles in my feet because I was jammed in there so tight, hoping that would help me stay in the boat. By moving the foot pegs forwards I could now feel my feet, but I was even less confident about staying in the boat if I needed to. 

Which begs the question why, when we came around the corner and entered the break zone of Point Bonita, I didn’t just stay outside and watch the others play. Of course I am not in the habit of just watching and so I made a very foolish decision to ignore my concerns about the fit of my kayak and paddled into the break zone. Added to this poor judgment was perhaps an even more basic error of not watching the wave action through a couple of cycles of wave sets and lulls before entering the break zone. When the first set wave came it was huge, exploding on the outer reefs and then continuing on, its power barely checked, an eight foot wall of whitewater which just accelerated towards me. 

My fellow CCK instructor Bryant Burkhardt had also entered the break zone but sensibly didn’t go as deep as me. He was in the P&H Delphin and told me later that he went airborne as the highly rockered and voluminous bow popped him up over the wall of water. I looked at the wave, and then at the lack of rocker and volume in the bow of the Sportee and I knew there was no way I was going to make it over. I just had time to take a few short, fast power stokes before the wave engulfed me and I immediately felt myself going backwards, then sideways. I felt solid in the high brace position but knew the cliff wasn’t far away. I threw my weight on the foam pile hoping to let the wave pass underneath me. Suddenly I felt my spray skirt pop, my legs slide out of the kayak and then it was gone. It took me a while to reach the surface and when I did, I saw a second wave about to engulf me. I took a breath and ducked down, trying not to tumble – I felt it was rather important at this point to know which way was up! My lungs were bursting by the time I broke the surface again but thankfully now there was a lull. I kicked hard, swimming side stroke, paddle in one hand, and allowed the current to carry me out of the rocky cove. Bryant had paddled over to me to check on my welfare and he stayed close by as I swam out of the break zone.

I saw the Sportee briefly, floating next to the rocks and knew that I would have to leave it there. It was an easy decision to make at the time and in retrospect it makes even more sense. It looked like it too might get flushed out of the cove by the south-going current and I had hopes of recovering it later. Bill and Tony joined us and Bryant gave me a ride on his rear deck to Bonita Cove, towed by Bill. Once I was ashore the guys returned to the Point to look for the kayak but it had disappeared from view. At the time of writing this, the kayak remains missing. 

I had a long ‘walk of shame’ back to Horseshoe Cove whilst the other three enjoyed the paddle back, with more play on the way. It gave me plenty of time to reflect on my poor decision making. It was a timely lesson for me since I am spending more and more time out at Point Bonita, both in my own time and with students. I had become complacent, even cocky, and it was time for King Neptune to remind me who’s boss. 

The bottom line is that I broke two fundamental rules of coastal sea kayaking:

1. Only use equipment that you are familiar with and have confidence with in all conditions.

2. Do not enter a break zone until you have observed it properly and are certain that you can deal with the conditions during a wave set. 

I got away with only a hurt ego. The boat is lost and all the gear that was in it. That sucks for Bill and the fact that he is being such a gentleman about it emphasizes the caliber of person that this sport attracts.

Oh, and the verdict on the kayak test? The Delphin wins, Fusion second, Nifty third and the Sportee? It is in Davey Jones locker and in my humble opinion, that’s exactly where it belongs!

Sean Morley

PS. Watch Bryant Burkhardt’s video of the day: